Day 1 (June 1st)
I’d been planning this trip for a while and arrived at Keflavik International with Icelandic Air flight full of excitement. A slight mis calculation with distances meant I’d booked a hotel in Reykjavik 50km away. The time now 6.10pm, and my camper pick up time being 10am the following day, meant a 45-minute journey on Fly Bus, no probs. I can't recommend them enough, about £23.50 single to the capital and then run one an hour. Hotel Odinsve was a short walk from my drop off, very nice, dropped off my gear, found a bar, also very nice.
Day 2 (June 2nd) Distance Driven 289km
I grabbed a taxi to the bus depot (it’s uphill all the way), back to Keflavik, where I picked up the courtesy shuttle bus to Camp Easy’s offices to collect my home for the next 9 days.
After a fairly lengthy induction on all things camping and driving in Iceland, (I get it, some people are thick and need everything explained in detail), I get the keys to my van, a 4WD VW, they call it a “Camper Van Easy Clever 4x4”. It’s had a bump on both sides, I’m not precious about that, I didn't do it, and I’m off!
My plan was to cover the bottom half of Iceland, starting in the West, and ending in the East, seeing all I’d planned to see in between. First photo stop is Búðakirkja Black Church, not the best of conditions, it’s blowing a gale, and that black sand gets everywhere, but I get an ok shot. From there it’s on to Vík í Mýrdal Church, I know another church, don’t panic, I’m not on some pilgrimage, it’s just the way it worked out, Icelanders love a church! I end the day at Svöðufoss, apparently called “The Hidden Magical Waterfall of Snæfellsnes”, well it wasn’t very well hidden, I found it. It was however empty, no one there, just me, a great way to end the first proper day.
Camp that night was at Grundarfjörður Campsite, basic, is probably the best way to describe it, however I’d stopped off at the supermarket, and with the bottle of Irish I’d picked up in duty free, I was set.
Day 3 (June 3rd) Distance Driven 366km
Today started well with a short trip to one of the most photographed places in Iceland, Kirkjufell Mountain, near the little village of Grundarfjörður. The weather had taken a downward turn, 2°c Reel Feel -11°c according to my weather app, however getting there early meant I missed the crowds, result! Next stop was to head inland to Barnafoss Waterfall. Theres a great little visitor's centre here serving up a very good hot buffet.
My plans were to head back south following the F roads until they joined the main road. All was going to plan, slow driving, you can't really describe the gravel roads in Iceland, unless you've driven them (imagine taking your car across a building site). Taking the sketchy 552 from Barnafoss I reach the much-appreciated tarmac of the 52, however there’s been a landslide, 11km from my destination.
Now driving a left-hand drive when you come from the UK does mean that it’s tricky to judge where your wheel is when dodging boulders. Sharp rock, rubber tyre, not a great combination. Following the loud bang, I manage to coast to a spot at the side of the road. It’s cold, 80mph winds and snowing horizontally, time to change the wheel. Imagine my delight when I find Camp Easy have forgotten to include the tyre spanner in the bag, just the jack. With no phone coverage I’m left with messaging their office via the navigation tablet. After an hour or so of failed messages, cut offs and dropouts because I’m in the middle of nowhere, I eventually manage to relay them my Google Map location and they send someone out with a spanner, he helps loosen the wheel nuts, and leaves. All I have to do now is to grab the spare from under the van, pop it on, and go, easy right?
Not a chance, that bracket won't budge, completely corroded, to resolve this situation leaves me only one action, lay in the road, and kick the fuck out of my newly acquired spanner. Result – ripped off the bracket and some metal, freed the spare, cold, wet, and I lost my favourite woolly hat (last seen bouncing down the road, over the crest of the hill as it was blown off my head)
Let’s put these 31/2 hours of misery, where I saw no cars except spanner man’s behind me. Having regained my fourth wheel, I drive the short distance to Reykjamörk Hveragerði Campsite, highly recommended this site, great facilities and the town of Havergerdi, it means “hot spring garden” has got so much to offer.
Day 4 (June 4th) Distance Driven 104km
First priority today, get the tyre replaced, it’s beyond repair, I did a great job on it. I’m advised to see a local chap at Laugarvatn who I arrange to meet at a local petrol station. I phone him on arrival and interrupt his lunch, not sure if this annoyed him, it’s hard to tell with Vikings sometimes. He takes my wheel and 20 minutes later returns with the bad news that he can't help, and I’ll have to go to Pitstop at Selfoss. Off I go, Pitstop tell me they will have to order the new tyre from Reykjavik, it’ll be with them at 5pm, I arrange to pop back the next morning.
Back to my road trip, I head to Öxarárfoss Waterfall, it isn’t one of the prettiest falls, however the area of Thingvellir National Park has a lot of history, so well worth a visit. After this it was a short drive to Kerið Crater, it's another pay to park venue but very interesting none the less. Spent the night at Camping Thingvellir, basically a field with water, but hey, the weathers improved massively.
Day 5 (June 5th) Distance Driven 244km
Back to Selfoss, tyre fitted, at last, £195, surprisingly not bad for an off-road van tyre!
First stop Haifoss this 400ft waterfall is very impressive, the height of the plateau however meant the wind speed up there was insane, I actually saw someone blown over, I didn’t laugh, honest. From Haifoss I headed to the Gjáin Valley, not easy drive on the gravel but this place is unbelievably beautiful, as you trek down into the valley it’s breath taking. Following the ring road takes you past Seljalandsfoss, very touristy but still a must, then onto my home for the night at Skogar Campsite, where you can pitch up next to the iconic Skogafoss Waterfall.
Day 6 (June 6th) Distance Driven 169km
Leaving Skogafoss I head toward Vik, stopping off at Vík í Mýrdal Church on route, then onto Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. It’s an impressive place, and once more worth the hike. This whole area of Iceland is awash with waterfalls; you pass so many as you're driving, a couple picnic areas I can recommend is Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Lómagnúpur Mountain.
Pitch that night was to be Skaftafellsstofa Visitor Centre & Camping, another recommendation of mine.
Day 7 (June 7th) Distance Driven 351km
Staying at Skaftafell has the adavantage of two fantastic hikes from on your doorstep. Firstly, I hiked the 2km to Svínafellsjökull Glacier at 6.30am to avoid the crowds, it's an easy flat and pleasant walk. Returning, and heading in the opposite direction is Svartifoss Waterfall, a more challenging uphill hike just shy of 2km each way.
Leaving Skaftafell I continued West, stopping of at Hofskirkja Church, the famous little turf church. A little further down the road you’ll come to the oh so touristy Diamond Beach and Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. My favourite thing in this area, the lobster rolls, nom!
One of the highlights I was looking forward to on this trip was Vestrahorn Mountain, it’s very weather dependant when it comes to getting a decent image, so that evening I parked up at Vestrahorn Camping, staying there includes the ticket onto the black beach, as it’s private land. Checking the weather report, it showed the wind would drop early morning, so I decided on an early shoot.
Day 8 (June 8th) Distance Driven 331km
I arrived there next morning about 6.30am, and it paid off. Not only was there hardly anyone there, just one other photographer, but conditions for a reflection in the shallow sea was perfect, result! I spent a good part of the day at Vestrahorn, who wouldn’t, before heading on past Mount Brunnhorn “The batman Mountain” and onto Estrahorn, then turning back West to head to Pakgil Campsite. This place was a great place to pitch up, once again not the easiest of roads but well worth it for its beautiful location and waterfall.
Day 9 (June 9th) Distance Driven 234km
I’d arranged a 10am drop off the next day, so my plans where to head to Grindavik Campsite only a few minutes down the road from the drop off point. Having spent the morning photographing Pakgil Waterfall, I then headed back via Reynisfjara black sand beach, then onto Brúarfoss Waterfall, stopping briefly by the Geysir Centre along with every other tourist in Iceland, but it’s not every day you get to see geysers and the smell of eggy sulphur.
Day 10 (June 10th) Total Distance Driven 2088km Diesel £403
A repeat of day 1, back to Reykjavik via Fly Bus, a bit of shopping picking up the obligatory gifts and my last night in Iceland.
Day 11 (June 11th)
Flew back to the Uk, picked up my car, flat battery...... FFS!